Quick answer
There are four shots every hockey player needs: the wrist shot (your accuracy and everyday scoring shot), the snap shot (a quick-release shot for in-tight chances), the backhand (for scrambles and in-close plays where you have no time to turn the puck to your forehand), and the slap shot (maximum power from distance, mostly for defensemen at the point). Learn them in that order. Wrist and snap shots score most of the goals; the backhand rescues broken plays; the slap shot is the specialist. Master the mechanics of each with reps on a smooth surface, and aim at real targets, not "the net."
Key takeaways
- Prioritize the wrist shot and snap shot — they produce the large majority of goals in a real game.
- Every shot is powered by the same engine: weight transfer from your back leg to your front leg and stick flex, not arm strength.
- The snap shot is a wrist shot with a shorter wind-up — trade a little power for a much faster release.
- A clean backhand is a genuine weapon in tight, not a last resort; the puck should roll off the toe with the blade cupped.
- The slap shot needs the most space and time, so it belongs to defensemen and point shots far more than to forwards in traffic.
- Follow-through decides height and direction on all four shots: point the blade where you want the puck to go.
How many types of hockey shots are there?
Four core shots cover almost everything you will ever need: wrist, snap, backhand, and slap. There are variations inside each — a quick-release wrist shot versus a loaded power wrist shot, a stationary slap shot versus one off the rush — but those are settings on the same four tools. When I build a young player's shooting, we spend roughly 60% of reps on the wrist shot, 25% on the snap shot, 10% on the backhand, and 5% on the slap. That split mirrors where goals actually come from. The players who plateau are almost always the ones who spend their whole driveway session winding up slap shots because they are loud and fun.
The table below is how I'd rank the four for a forward learning to score:
| Shot | Best for | Release speed | Power | Learn it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wrist shot | Accuracy, everyday scoring | Medium | Medium–high | 1st |
| Snap shot | Quick chances in the slot | Fast | Medium | 2nd |
| Backhand | In-tight scrambles, breakaways | Medium | Low–medium | 3rd |
| Slap shot | Point shots, distance | Slow | Highest | 4th |
The wrist shot: your bread-and-butter
The wrist shot is the most trainable and most useful shot in hockey. Start with the puck cupped on the heel of the blade, roughly behind your back foot so it has a runway. As you sweep forward, push off the back leg and drive your weight onto the front leg — that leg drive is where the power lives. The puck rolls from heel to toe along the blade, and you snap your wrists at the end so it spins off the toe flat and true. Point your follow-through at the target.
Cue: "step into it." If your back skate stays heavy and planted, you are shooting with your arms and the shot will die. There are two versions worth training: a quick-release wrist shot with the puck starting closer to your body and almost no wind-up, and a loaded power wrist shot with the puck further back and a longer drag. Same mechanics, different starting point.
Coach Erik's tip: In thirty years the good wrist shot has not changed one bit — the weight moves first and the hands only finish what the legs start. Before you count a single rep, film one shot from the side on your phone. The error I see every week at camps is a front foot that never loads — players lean their upper body forward instead of driving their weight forward. If your back skate isn't light or lifting slightly at release, your weight transfer isn't happening, and no amount of arm strength fixes that.
The snap shot: a quick-release weapon
Think of the snap shot as a wrist shot with the wind-up cut off. You keep the puck close, drop the blade onto the ice just behind it, load the shaft by pushing down with your bottom hand while pulling back with the top, and release almost immediately. You give up some power compared to a full wrist shot, but you get the puck away before the goalie or a defender can react. This is the shot for the slot, for rebounds, and for any chance where a defender is closing on you.
Contact the puck near the middle of the blade for control, keep your chest facing the target, and roll your wrists up at the end if you need to lift it. Cue: "load and go — no back-swing." The whole motion should take under a second from the moment the puck touches your blade.
The backhand: not a last resort
In thirty years of coaching I have never met a natural backhand — every clean one was built on purpose. Most players treat the backhand as an accident. Good players train it, because in tight to the net you often have no time to turn the puck to your forehand. Line the puck up in the middle of the backside of your blade and cup it so it stays put and the goalie can't read it. Weight starts on your back leg and transfers toward the net as you sweep. Angle the blade back to lift the puck — the flatter the blade, the lower the shot. Follow through toward your target the same way you would on your forehand.
Watch for: the puck dribbling off the heel. That is the number-one backhand fault, and it comes from not cupping the puck and rushing the sweep. Cue: "cup it, then sweep." A strong backhand turns breakaways and net-front scrambles into goals.
The slap shot: power for the point
The slap shot has the most moving parts and needs the most time and space, which is exactly why it belongs to defensemen at the point far more than to forwards in traffic. Bring the stick back to roughly shoulder height, transfer your weight to your front leg on the way down, and strike the ice a few inches behind the puck so the shaft flexes — think of drawing a bow. Contact the puck near the middle of the blade as the stick recoils, and follow through toward your target: low finish for a low shot, high finish for the top corner.
Off the rush, take the shot when your body is over the puck near the middle of your stride so your skating speed adds to the shot. Cue: "hit the ice first, then the puck." Don't over-swing — a controlled three-quarter slap shot that hits the net beats a full wind-up that sails wide every time.
Drills to build all four shots
Work through these on a smooth surface. A shooting pad gives the puck near-ice glide and protects your blade, so you can do all of this in the garage or driveway.
| Drill | Shot | Reps | Move on when… |
|---|---|---|---|
| Slow-motion rolls | Wrist | 2×15 | Puck spins off the toe every rep |
| Corner calls | Wrist | 4×10 | 6 of 10 called shots hit the corner |
| Load-and-go | Snap | 3×10 | Release is under 1 second |
| Cup-and-sweep | Backhand | 3×10 | Puck lifts cleanly, no heel wobble |
| Three-quarter slaps | Slap | 3×10 | 8 of 10 on net from the "point" |
Aim at something real. Hang shooting targets in the corners — aiming at a target instead of "the net" is the single fastest way to build accuracy. When you want honest feedback on power, a shot speed radar turns every session into a competition against your own best number. For high-volume days, shooting into an full-size goal or a shooting tarp keeps pucks contained so you can focus on reps.
Coach Erik's tip: The players who make it are the ones who chase difficulty instead of comfort. When a drill starts feeling easy, don't add power — add a constraint. Give yourself one second from touch to release, move a step closer to shrink the angle, or start the puck in your feet so you have to pull it into position first. Constraints force the exact adjustments a game demands, and they expose which shot actually holds up under pressure.
How to build shot power off the ice
Power on every one of these shots comes from the same three places, in this order: weight transfer (legs and hips), stick flex, and finally the wrist snap. Train the engine, not just the hands. A stick weight during warm-ups and a handful of reps with heavy pucks build the forearm and grip strength that sharpen your release — use the heavy pucks for only 10–20 reps per session, then switch back to a regular puck so the extra weight doesn't distort your technique. Match your stick flex to your body too; a common guideline is a flex rating at or below half your body weight in pounds.
Common mistakes
- All arms, no legs. The most common power leak on every shot. Fix: exaggerate the back-to-front leg drive until it's automatic.
- Living on the slap shot. It's loud and fun but scores the fewest goals. Fix: flip your rep ratio toward wrist and snap shots.
- Backhand off the heel. Puck flutters or dribbles wide. Fix: cup the puck in the middle of the blade, then sweep.
- Shooting at "the net." No target means no accuracy gains. Fix: aim at a specific corner or a physical target every rep.
- Over-swinging the slap shot. A big wind-up sacrifices accuracy and time. Fix: use a three-quarter back-swing and hit the net first.
- No follow-through. Cutting the finish short kills both accuracy and height control. Fix: hold the finish for a beat, blade pointing at the target.
FAQ
What are the four main types of hockey shots?
The wrist shot, snap shot, backhand, and slap shot. The wrist and snap shots are your everyday scoring shots, the backhand handles in-tight and broken plays, and the slap shot delivers maximum power from distance, mostly for defensemen.
Which hockey shot should I learn first?
The wrist shot. It's the most accurate, the most useful in a game, and the easiest to train off the ice. Once your wrist shot is clean, the snap shot is a short step away because it uses the same mechanics with a quicker release.
What's the difference between a wrist shot and a snap shot?
A snap shot is essentially a wrist shot with the wind-up removed. You keep the puck close, load the stick quickly, and release almost immediately. You trade a little power for a much faster release, which is why the snap shot is deadly in the slot.
Why is the slap shot ranked last?
It needs the most time and space and has the most moving parts, so in traffic it's often the wrong choice. It scores the fewest goals of the four for forwards. It's still essential for defensemen taking point shots, where they have room to load it up.
How do I add power to my shot?
Power comes from weight transfer and stick flex, not your arms. Drive off your back leg onto your front leg, load the shaft by pushing down with your bottom hand, and match your stick flex to your body. Off-ice, heavy pucks and a stick weight build the forearm strength that sharpens your snap.
Can I practice all four shots at home?
Yes. A shooting pad gives the puck ice-like glide and saves your blade, targets give you something to aim at, and a tarp or net keeps pucks contained. You can train every one of these shots in a garage or driveway with 100 focused shots a day.
Summary
Four shots, learned in order: wrist, snap, backhand, slap. Spend most of your reps on the wrist and snap shots because that's where goals come from, keep a sharp backhand for in-tight, and treat the slap shot as the specialist tool it is. Every shot runs on the same engine — leg drive and stick flex — so train that engine and aim at real targets every session. For the full wrist shot breakdown, see our guide to the shooting accuracy training, and browse the Hockey Shooting hub for drills and equipment guides. Then put in the reps — a shot is built one honest rep at a time.
