Quick answer
Stickhandling through cones builds tight, controlled hands and teaches you to move the puck around obstacles the way you'd beat a defender's stick. Set up a line or grid of cones a stick-length apart, weave the puck through them with quick, close touches, keep your head up, and control the puck on both forehand and backhand around each cone. Start slow to get the pattern clean, then speed up, then add moves — toe drags and pulls around the cones. It's one of the best solo drills there is because it forces control in tight space. Keep the puck close, stay relaxed, and progress from slow-and-clean to fast-and-creative.
Key takeaways
- Cone weaving builds tight hands and puck control in a small space.
- Space cones about a stick-length apart to start; closer for tighter control.
- Keep the puck close and use both forehand and backhand around each cone.
- Head up — stickhandle by feel, not by staring at the puck.
- Progress: slow and clean, then faster, then add moves.
- A few focused minutes daily builds hands faster than one long session.
Why cone drills work
Cones give the puck somewhere to be that isn't right in front of you, which forces you to move it with purpose and control — exactly what beating a defender requires. Weaving trains tight hands, quick touches, and using both sides of your blade, and a grid of cones lets you rehearse the same moves you'd use in a game against a stick or a leg. In thirty years I've never found a cheaper, more effective solo hands drill. A bag of cones and ten minutes a day turns clumsy hands into quick, controlled ones.
Setting up and the basic weave
- Set the cones. Start with 4–6 cones in a line, about a stick-length apart, on a smooth surface.
- Weave through. Move the puck side to side around each cone with quick, close touches — forehand around one, backhand around the next.
- Keep it close. The puck should stay within a foot of the cone as you pass it. Cue: "tight to the cone."
- Head up. Glance at the cones, but keep your eyes up as much as you can.
- Control the pace. Slow and clean first; only speed up once the pattern is smooth.
Coach Erik's tip: Slow is the fastest way to get fast. Players race through cones, hit every one, and never actually control the puck — they're just flailing. Do it at half speed until the puck is glued to your blade around every cone, then let the speed come naturally. Clean and slow beats fast and messy every single time, and the clean version is what shows up in a game.
Progressions and variations
| Level | Drill |
|---|---|
| Beginner | Slow weave, forehand-backhand around a line of cones |
| Intermediate | Faster weave, then a grid you navigate in different patterns |
| Add moves | Toe drag or pull around each cone instead of a simple weave |
| Add a shot | Weave the cones, then finish with a shot on net |
| Head-up | Weave while reading a number a partner holds up |
Use a set of cones with a stickhandling trainer or a ball for touch, and finish weaves with a shot on a shooting pad. Combine with our stickhandling tips and soft hands guides.
Coach Erik's tip: Once the basic weave is easy, stop weaving and start dangling. Use a real move around each cone — a toe drag, a pull to the backhand, a fake — so you're practicing beating a "defender," not just steering. Cones that you only weave around stop teaching you once it's easy; cones you dangle around never do.
Common mistakes
- Going too fast too soon. No real control. Fix: slow and clean first.
- Puck too far from the cone. No tight-space skill. Fix: keep the puck within a foot of each cone.
- Only using the forehand. Half your hands. Fix: control the puck on both sides of the blade.
- Staring at the puck. Can't read a game. Fix: keep your eyes up.
- Just weaving forever. Stops teaching once easy. Fix: add real moves around the cones.
- Low volume. Hands need reps. Fix: a little every day.
FAQ
How far apart should stickhandling cones be?
Start with cones about a stick-length apart so you have room to weave cleanly. As your hands get quicker, move them closer together to force tighter control. Wider spacing builds flow; tighter spacing builds quick, close hands.
How many cones do I need?
Four to six is plenty to start. You can line them up for a basic weave or spread them into a grid for more varied patterns. A small set of cones covers everything from beginner weaves to advanced dangle drills.
Should I keep my head up during cone drills?
Yes, as much as you can. Glance at the cones to navigate, but train your eyes up so you're stickhandling by feel. Head-up cone work transfers to games, where you need to see the ice, not stare at the puck.
Are cone drills good for beginners?
Very. They're one of the best beginner hands drills because they force control in a small space with instant feedback — hit a cone and you know you lost control. Start slow and clean, and they build quick hands fast.
How do I make cone drills harder?
Move the cones closer, speed up, add real moves like toe drags around each cone, keep your head up, or finish the weave with a shot. Turning the weave into a dangle around each cone keeps the drill challenging once the basic pattern is easy.
Can I do cone drills at home?
Yes — they're a perfect at-home drill on any smooth surface with a puck or stickhandling ball and a few cones (or any small objects). Ten focused minutes a day builds noticeably quicker, more controlled hands over a few weeks.
Summary
Stickhandling through cones is a cheap, effective way to build tight, controlled hands: set cones a stick-length apart, weave the puck close on both forehand and backhand, keep your head up, and progress from slow-and-clean to fast to dangling real moves around each cone. A few focused minutes daily is all it takes. Build on it with our stickhandling tips and soft hands guides, and explore the Hockey Stickhandling hub for more.
