Quick answer
Choose a hockey stick by matching four things to the player: length, flex, curve, and hand (left or right). Length should reach roughly the chin in skates or the nose in shoes; flex should be about half the player's body weight in pounds (lower flex bends more easily, which helps younger and lighter players); curve affects puck feel and shooting and a moderate mid-curve suits most players; and the hand is whichever grip feels natural and matches the blade. For young players, prioritize a flex they can actually bend and a length that isn't too long — the right fit matters far more than a premium price tag. Fit first, budget second.
Key takeaways
- Four things to match: length, flex, curve, and hand.
- Length: about chin height in skates, nose height in shoes.
- Flex: roughly half your body weight in pounds; lower flex = easier to bend.
- Curve: a moderate mid-curve suits most players learning all-around skills.
- A stick you can actually flex will help your shot far more than an expensive one you can't.
- Fit the player, not the price — especially for growing kids.
Why fit beats price
Parents often ask which expensive stick will make their kid better. The honest answer: the right-fitting mid-range stick beats a premium stick that doesn't fit. A stick that's too long or too stiff actively hurts a young player's shot and puck control, no matter what it costs. The research on stick flex is clear that a shaft matched to your strength loads and releases better, which is where shot power comes from. So measure and match first, then spend what makes sense — kids outgrow sticks fast, so fit and value matter more than the top-tier model.
Length
Stand the stick up in front of you. In skates, the top should reach roughly your chin; in shoes, roughly your nose. Too long forces your hands too far apart and buries your puck control; too short makes you hunch. Younger players learning puck control often prefer it a touch shorter for quicker hands. You can cut a stick down, but remember that cutting it also makes it stiffer, so a heavily-cut stick will flex less than its rating suggests. Cue: "size it so the blade sits flat with your hands out front."
Flex
Flex is the number on the shaft — it's how much force it takes to bend the stick. A lower number bends more easily. The common guideline is a flex around half your body weight in pounds (a 100 lb player, roughly a 50 flex), but it's a starting point, not a law.
| If the flex is… | What happens |
|---|---|
| Too stiff for you | You can't load the shaft, so you lose the "slingshot" power |
| Too soft for you | The stick feels whippy and inaccurate, especially on hard shots |
| About right | You can flex it on a normal shot; the stick adds power and accuracy |
For young players, err toward a flex they can actually bend — being slightly too soft is better than too stiff. Remember cutting the stick raises the effective flex.
Coach Toms's tip: Test flex simply: have the player take a normal wrist shot and watch the shaft. If it visibly bends, the flex is workable; if it stays dead straight no matter how hard they shoot, it's too stiff for them right now. You can even measure shot speed on a radar with two flexes and let the number pick the winner — the one they can load usually wins.
Curve and hand
The curve is the bend in the blade. A moderate mid-curve (curve in the middle of the blade) is the most forgiving all-around choice and is what most young players should start with — it handles the puck, passes, and shoots well without exaggerating any one thing. Big toe curves can help some shooters but make backhands and puck control harder, so they're not ideal for developing players. The hand — left or right — is whichever grip feels natural (which hand goes on top) and must match the blade you buy. See our stick grip guide to sort out the hand.
Coach Toms's tip: Don't chase a pro's curve. A young player copying an NHL star's aggressive curve usually ends up with worse backhands and puck control. A neutral mid-curve develops complete skills, and complete skills are what actually get players ahead. Save the specialty curve for when the fundamentals are locked in.
Material and budget
Sticks range from tough, heavier options to light, responsive composites. For a young, growing player, a durable mid-range stick with the right fit is usually the smart buy — they'll outgrow it before a premium stick's edge matters, and a snapped $300 stick stings more than a snapped $100 one. Spend up when the player has stopped growing quickly and the fit is dialed in. Fit and flex first; material and price last.
Common mistakes
- Buying too long "to grow into." Hurts puck control now. Fix: fit the current player; replace as they grow.
- Flex too stiff. The player can't load it. Fix: choose a flex they can actually bend.
- Copying a pro's curve. Wrecks backhands and control. Fix: start with a neutral mid-curve.
- Forgetting cutting adds stiffness. A cut stick flexes less. Fix: account for it, or size up flex-wise if cutting a lot.
- Paying for premium too early. Wasted on a growing kid. Fix: buy value; spend up when growth slows.
- Ignoring the hand. A mismatched grip and curve feels wrong. Fix: confirm left vs right first.
FAQ
What flex hockey stick should I use?
A common starting point is a flex about half your body weight in pounds — so a 100 lb player around a 50 flex. It's a guideline, not a rule: the real test is whether you can bend the shaft on a normal shot. Younger players should err toward a flex they can actually load.
How long should a hockey stick be?
Standing in skates, the stick should reach roughly your chin; in shoes, roughly your nose. Younger players learning puck control sometimes prefer it slightly shorter. It should let you keep the blade flat with your hands out in front of you.
What curve should a beginner choose?
A moderate mid-curve. It's the most forgiving for handling, passing, and shooting, and it develops complete skills. Aggressive toe curves can help specific shots but hurt backhands and puck control, so they're not ideal for developing players.
Does cutting a stick change the flex?
Yes — cutting a stick down makes it stiffer, so a heavily-cut stick flexes less than its printed rating. If you plan to cut a lot off, factor that in, or choose a slightly lower flex to compensate.
Is an expensive stick worth it for a young player?
Usually not. A right-fitting mid-range stick beats a premium stick that doesn't fit, and kids outgrow sticks quickly. Prioritize length, flex, and curve, and save the premium models for when the player has stopped growing fast.
How do I know if a stick is too stiff?
Watch the shaft on a normal shot. If it bends, the flex works; if it stays dead straight no matter how hard the player shoots, it's too stiff for them. Too stiff means they can't load the stick, and they lose the extra power a flexed shaft provides.
Summary
Choosing a stick is about fit, not price: match length (chin in skates), flex (about half body weight, and one you can actually bend), curve (a forgiving mid-curve), and hand. Remember that cutting a stick stiffens it, and that a well-fitted mid-range stick beats a premium one that doesn't fit — especially for growing players. Sort the grip with our stick grip guide, learn to care for it with our taping guide, and explore the Hockey Training hub for more.
